Ashleigh & Luke

Route guide · New South Wales and Victoria

Sydney to Melbourne down the coast in a campervan: what we did

This is how our Great Lap started. We drove Ron, our 2WD Renault Master campervan, south from Sydney in the spring of 2025, and took until January 2026 to reach Geelong and the Spirit of Tasmania. On the way we worked in Merimbula for a couple of months, spent our first Christmas in the van, and took detours inland to Canberra and up Mount Kosciuszko. This is the drive in the order we did it, from Sydney to Melbourne.

Heading north instead? See our East Coast in a 2WD campervan guide, Sydney to Cairns.

Key points

  • Go in spring for whales. From Jervis Bay to Bermagui, we saw whales heading south, often with calves, from a tour boat, from headlands and once from the van.
  • Check unsealed roads, even "2WD-suitable" ones. A hump on the way into a campground near Hyams Beach scraped Ron and punctured our water tank. Have someone get out and spot you.
  • Book the national park campgrounds ahead. NSW national park campgrounds, Booderee, Honeymoon Bay and Tidal River at Wilsons Prom all have their own booking rules, and park entry fees are usually on top.
  • Canberra and Kosciuszko are worth the detours. Both are a few hours inland, and Thredbo was one of the highlights of the whole stretch.
  • Check the UV, even when it's cold. On Kosciuszko the high was 19°C with snow by the path, and Luke still got badly sunburnt, even with sunscreen on.
  • Give it weeks, not days. We took about three months, including work. Every town down this coast had a beach we wanted to stop at.
Before you go. Always double-check that walks, falls, roads and attractions are open before you go, to avoid disappointment, and check current fees at the time of booking. Closures and prices can change at short notice.

Can you do it in a 2WD van?

Yes. Ron is a 2WD, and as we say on our essentials page, we stick to sealed roads and firm tracks. The main roads we drove between towns were sealed. The problems were the short unsealed bits to campgrounds and farm gates. Here's how the places on our route stack up:

Road or placeIn a 2WD?What the official page says, and what we found
Unsealed road to a campground near Hyams BeachLook firstIt was described as suitable for 2WD, but a hump just before the campground caught the bracket under our water tank and punctured it. Luke had to take the tank out, plastic-weld the crack and make a new bracket.
Pretty Beach campground, MurramarangYes, the right wayWe stayed here on the way down. The access road is unsealed but 2WD-accessible, and warns that Google Maps may send you along Bucks Road from the Princes Highway, which is very rough and not suitable for 2WD. Take the Bawley Point Road exit at Termeil instead.
Honeymoon Bay, Beecroft PeninsulaYes, when openWe drove Ron in for our first night of the lap. Access can change at short notice for military activity or bad weather and road conditions.
The old road to BermaguiYesA local in Tilba told us to take the old road instead of the highway, and it was beautiful.
Gillards campground, Mimosa RocksYesWe drove in and stayed.
Merimbula Gourmet OystersCarefulThe road in is unsealed and the car park is small. If you're in a van or towing, just be aware.
Mount Ainslie lookout, CanberraYesWe drove Ron to the top.
Thredbo and Ngarigo campgroundYesWe drove up from the coast and stayed at Ngarigo.
Telegraph Saddle, for Mount OberonShuttle bus at busy timesThe car park was closed when we went, so we took the shuttle from Tidal River. At busy times Parks Victoria runs the shuttle instead, so check before you go.
Raymond IslandLeave the vanWe parked in Paynesville and walked onto the ferry.

Our habit for anything unsealed: check what the road looks like on Google Street View first. If it doesn't have Street View, there's usually a reason for it.

How long, when, and our route

spring on this coast meant whales and wind

We started in Sydney in the NSW spring school holidays of 2025 and drove onto the Spirit of Tasmania at Geelong in January 2026. That includes a couple of months working in Merimbula, through Christmas and New Year. Spring meant whales and wind: some days were warm and sunny, and on others the wind was cold enough for jumpers, even on the beach. By December it was hot.

Our route, north to south:

  1. Jervis Bay: Honeymoon Bay, Callala Beach, Huskisson and Hyams Beach.
  2. Pretty Beach in Murramarang National Park, Batemans Bay, Congo, then Tuross Head and Dalmeny.
  3. Central Tilba, Bermagui and Mimosa Rocks National Park.
  4. Inland to Canberra for two days.
  5. Back to the coast at Tathra, then Merimbula, where we lived and worked.
  6. From Merimbula, up into the Snowy Mountains for Kosciuszko and Thredbo.
  7. Eden, the last town in NSW.
  8. Into Victoria: Lakes Entrance and Raymond Island.
  9. Wilsons Promontory, then Melbourne, St Kilda and the ferry at Geelong.

North of Jervis Bay, this guide also covers Coledale, Kangaroo Valley and Berry, all places we took Paul (Ashleigh's dad).

If you're not stopping to work, you could do this in a couple of weeks. We'd still give the Sapphire Coast as long as you can.

If you only have about 10 days (suggested pace — not our timetable). We took months on this stretch, including work in Merimbula, so this is a planning sketch for a shorter trip, not a claim we drove it in ten days:
  1. Days 1–2: Leave Sydney via the Illawarra — Coledale if you want a beach camp, then Berry / the South Coast inland fringe.
  2. Days 3–4: Jervis Bay area (Honeymoon Bay / Huskisson side) if you can book, then on toward Pretty Beach, Batemans Bay and the Eurobodalla towns.
  3. Days 5–6: Central Tilba, Bermagui and Mimosa Rocks, then the Sapphire Coast toward Tathra / Merimbula / Eden.
  4. Days 7–8: Cross into Victoria — Lakes Entrance / Raymond Island, then Wilsons Promontory if Tidal River access and shuttle rules work for your dates (Parks Victoria: Wilsons Promontory National Park, checked 6 November 2026).
  5. Days 9–10: Into Melbourne (and Geelong if you're catching the ferry).

Optional inland detours if you have extra days (or swap a coast day): Canberra and Kosciuszko / Thredbo. Tourism Australia also publishes a packaged coastal itinerary you can compare against this sketch (australia.com: 9-day Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive, checked 6 November 2026). Book national-park camps early, and keep the Sapphire Coast as long as you can.

Episode 1: the Great Lap begins at Jervis Bay. Kangaroos in the sea at Honeymoon Bay, dolphins, Callala Beach and Huskisson. Watch on YouTube

Sydney to Wollongong: Coledale Camping Reserve

South of Sydney, in the northern Illawarra, Coledale Camping Reserve is a must if you're on that coast. One of the reasons we love it is that you camp right on the beach. We stayed here with Paul for one last swim before Sydney (see it in our video).

Coledale Camping Reserve

A must-do if you're on this coast. It's right on the beach, and there's a fantastic pub and fish and chips within walking distance.

Coledale Surf Life Saving Club runs the reserve under a licence from Wollongong City Council, and the fees help fund its lifesaving work. It's a small grassy campground that backs straight onto the sand, just over an hour south of Sydney CBD via the Grand Pacific Drive and the Sea Cliff Bridge. You need to book, and well in advance. You can book through the online enquiry form, by phone on (02) 4267 4302 or by email, and you pay in full when you book. Cancellations aren't refunded. There are minimum stays at weekends, in swim season and over the Christmas school holidays. Check-in is after 12pm and check-out is 10am. Sites include powered, unpowered, unpowered with water and sullage, unpowered beachfront (with or without water and sullage) and tent-only. Facilities include hot showers, toilets, a kitchen, a coin-operated laundry, free electric barbecues on the grass promenade and outdoor beach showers. No animals are allowed except certified assistance animals, and no fires or heat beads. The club lists Coledale RSL and other cafés and takeaways in the village (Coledale Surf Club: Camping; Campground Rules). In a 2WD: you reach it on the Grand Pacific Drive. The campground rules say caravans can only go on short-term sites, not camp sites, and the club's pages don't give road details or maximum site or van lengths, so phone the office with your van's length before you book.
Worth a look
Royal National Park and the Sea Cliff Bridge. On the way down from Sydney, royal National Park costs $12 per vehicle per day, is open from 7am to 8.30pm, and its roads can be extremely busy on summer weekends and public holidays. Its main entry points are off the Princes Highway at Farnell Avenue, Loftus and McKell Avenue, Waterfall (NSW National Parks: Royal National Park visitor info). The 665 m Sea Cliff Bridge, on Lawrence Hargrave Drive at Coalcliff, is part of the Grand Pacific Drive and is free; the NSW Government says it's a good spot to watch for migrating whales in season (NSW Government: Sea Cliff Bridge). In a 2WD: NSW National Parks lists the park as sealed roads, 2WD accessible. Pets aren't allowed, and wood fires are banned.
Kangaroo Valley town, Hampden Bridge and Fitzroy Falls. Hampden Bridge, which carries Moss Vale Road over the Kangaroo River at the edge of town, dates from 1898. It's Australia's only surviving colonial suspension bridge (Transport for NSW). Up Barrengarry Mountain, fitzroy Falls lookout is 150 m from the Fitzroy Falls Visitor Centre along a wheelchair-accessible elevated boardwalk, with the water dropping nearly 100 m (NSW National Parks: Fitzroy Falls lookout). The visitor centre is open 9am to 4pm daily, reached on sealed, 2WD roads, and a vehicle entry fee applies in its carpark (NSW National Parks: Fitzroy Falls Visitor Centre).

Berry: the showground, doughnuts and the market

Sugar-coated cinnamon doughnuts in a cardboard tray
Kangaroo Valley and BerryFrom our Instagram · view the post

Berry is a beautiful town. We stayed at the showground campground there. It has some pretty famous doughnuts, lovely pubs, restaurants and quirky shops. We loved it so much we took Paul (Ashleigh's dad) there when he came over. We got lucky and caught their weekend market, with lots of unique stalls and local handcrafted items.

Shoalhaven City Council runs Berry Showground, at 35 Alexandra Street. The campground is reached through Gate 1 on Alexandra Street and sits on the southern side of the main arena. Council lists 48 sites, powered sites with water, an amenities block with showers, a camp kitchen, a laundry and a dump point. Dogs are allowed if kept under control, and fires aren't permitted (Shoalhaven City Council: Berry Showground Campground). You can book online through Council's booking system or contact the camping caretaker (Shoalhaven City Council: book Berry Showground camping). Council doesn't list camping prices on its page, so check the current rate when you book. The showground hosts the annual Berry Show on the first weekend of February (Shoalhaven City Council: Berry Showground).
The Berry Markets. The Berry Markets run at Berry Showground on the first Sunday of every month except February, from 8am to 2pm, with free entry (NSW Government: The Berry Markets). The Berry town website describes about 200 stalls, including handmade products, arts and crafts, local produce, plants and collectables (Berry.org.au: Berry Markets). Check the listing before you plan around a date.
Worth a look
The Famous Berry Donut Van. At 73 Queen Street. The Berry town website says it has served fresh, hot cinnamon doughnuts since 1964 (Berry.org.au: Berry Donut Van, Visit NSW: Berry Donut Van).
Booderee National Park. On the south side of Jervis Bay. You need a park pass to drive in, and you can buy it online or at the visitor centre. Its campgrounds are Green Patch, Cave Beach and Bristol Point, sites are allocated first come, first served, and peak periods include the school holidays, Easter, and Fridays and Saturdays from October to April. Generators aren't allowed. See Parks Australia: camping at Booderee and Parks Australia: Booderee park passes and permits.
Kiama Blowhole. We drove past Kiama on the way down. Destination Kiama says its blowhole is at its best when the swell is running from the southeast, and it has several viewing platforms, and there's parking, picnic areas and toilets nearby. See Destination Kiama: Kiama Blowhole.
Hyams Beach and whale watching in Jervis Bay. White sand at Hyams Beach, the Huskisson whale tour and a calm-day paddleboard. Watch on YouTube

Pretty Beach, Batemans Bay, Congo, Tuross Head and Dalmeny

Pink sunset clouds over the sea, with waves washing over dark rocks on the shore
A place we'd never heard ofFrom our Instagram · view the post
  • The water tank disaster. After the hump on the way to our campground near Hyams, we spent a night in a caravan park so Luke could take the tank out and plastic-weld the crack. Just getting the tank out took him at least an hour (see it in our video).
  • Pretty Beach and Congo campgrounds. On the way down we stayed at two national park campgrounds: Pretty Beach in Murramarang National Park, north of Batemans Bay, and Congo in Eurobodalla National Park, south of Moruya.
  • Batemans Bay. We needed to refill the tank and found a tap that WikiCamps said people had filled up at. Everything around Batemans Bay felt expensive, so we kept heading south for cheaper camping (see it in our video).
  • Lavender Bay, Tuross Head. An amazing place we'd never heard of. A calm spot for the paddleboard, with jellyfish in the water and pelicans by the boat dock (see it in our video). That morning there was a big spider in the van.
  • Check for branches before you pick a spot. We drove to a campground at Lake Brou, but there weren't many level van spots and some trees had broken branches, so in the wind we moved on (see it in our video).
  • Dalmeny. We stayed at Dalmeny Campground. From the headland right by it, we watched whales and seals, and got the drone up on the calmer evening (see it in our video).
Dalmeny Campground

One of the most underrated campgrounds we've found. It has great views, local fish and chips, and it's good value. We loved it here and enjoyed whale season so much that we extended our stay. It's a council campground, not a national park one; book through Dalmeny Campground.

Worth a look: Barunguba Montague Island. It's just off the coast near Narooma, south of Dalmeny. Hundreds of seals lie on the rocks from late winter to early December, more than 90 bird species have been seen there, and you're likely to see whales on their southern migration in spring. You visit on a tour, and you can stay in the lighthouse keepers' cottages. See NSW National Parks: Barunguba Montague Island Nature Reserve.
Tuross Head and whales off Dalmeny. Paddleboarding Lavender Bay, pelicans, a redback, and whales and seals from Dalmeny headland. Watch on YouTube

Central Tilba, Bermagui and Mimosa Rocks

A rectangular ocean rock pool beside rocky shore, with waves breaking beyond under a deep blue sky
Exploring the south coast of NSWFrom our Instagram · view the post
  • Mystery Bay Campground. We spent two nights here before Tilba. In the video we call it a national park, but it's actually a council campground surrounded by national park (see it in our video).
  • Central Tilba. A cute historic village. We went on a Monday, when a lot of it was closed, but the dairy shop was open. Probably the best cheese we've had in Australia, and an ice cream the next day (see it in our video).
  • Take the old road to Bermagui. That was a local's tip in Tilba, and it was a lovely drive (see it in our video).
  • Whales around Bermagui. We watched whales from Sunrise Point and Dickinson Point. Look for the spray first, then the splash (see it in our video). We'd also seen them from the van at our campsite the day before.
  • The Blue Pool. A cold plunge was our wash after a couple of nights without a shower. The wind was cold, but we got in anyway (see it in our video).
  • Gillards campground, Mimosa Rocks National Park. South of Bermagui, with the sea right in front of our spot, a wallaby with a joey, and more whales on the drone (see it in our video).
Gillards and Picnic Point campgrounds are in Mimosa Rocks National Park, so check each one's page before you go (NSW National Parks: Gillards campground, NSW National Parks: Picnic Point campground). Mystery Bay Campground, near Narooma, isn't a national park campground. It belongs to Eurobodalla Council, which has it run by an outside operator, and it's surrounded by national park (Eurobodalla Council: camping grounds (Mystery Bay and Dalmeny), Mystery Bay Campground).
Central Tilba, Bermagui and whales. Tilba on a Monday, the old road to Bermagui, whale spray off the headlands, the Blue Pool and Gillards. Watch on YouTube

Detour: Canberra

We came inland from the south coast and spent two spring days in the capital, with highs of 24 to 25°C. We stayed at the campground at Exhibition Park in Canberra (EPIC), in Mitchell. It's right next to public transport, which makes it an ideal spot to leave the van for the day and head into the city.

  • Hire Lime e-scooters. Canberra is spread out. We picked up Lime scooters by Commonwealth Park (you need the Lime app) and rode around Lake Burley Griffin and up Anzac Parade. Helmets were provided and you have to wear one (see it in our video).
  • The Australian War Memorial and the National Sculpture Garden filled most of day one. Old Parliament House closed at 5pm and we ran out of time, so check opening hours.
  • The National Botanic Gardens. The parking is paid by the hour, and we ended up extending ours. The rainforest gully, made from a dry creek with misting in the 1960s, was full of water dragons (see it in our video).
  • Mount Ainslie lookout. We drove up for the view straight down Anzac Parade to Parliament. You can see how the city was planned: a man-made lake, a design competition, and a capital put between Sydney and Melbourne.
  • The Sunset Cinema. We spotted it being set up at the Botanic Gardens, and later came back from Kosciuszko to go.
The EPIC campground is about eight minutes north of the city centre and reservations are required. Check in via Gate 2 on Flemington Road. The EPIC & Racecourse light rail stop is on Flemington Road, and several bus routes serve EPIC. The campground closes for major events such as Summernats, the Royal Canberra Show and the National Folk Festival, so check the dates before you plan around it (Exhibition Park in Canberra (EPIC): camping, EPIC: parking and transport).
Two days in Canberra. E-scooters round Lake Burley Griffin, the War Memorial, the Botanic Gardens and Mount Ainslie. Watch on YouTube

Tathra and Hobart Beach

Tathra Wharf and its red-roofed building on the headland, with blue sea and a long beach in the distance
Another insanely beautiful spotFrom our Instagram · view the post
  • Where the Bega River meets the sea. At Lions Park the current was strong, so take care if you wade in (see it in our video). The beach sand squeaks.
  • Tathra Wharf. Built in 1862 and used until 1954, with a café and a small museum that was open at weekends. Whales come close to the wharf in season, there were seals in the bay, and a sign explains the East Australian Current (see it in our video).
  • Headland walk to Chamberlain Lookout. About 45 minutes each way (see it in our video).
  • Stingrays at Kianinny. At about 11am, stingrays came in at the boat ramp while fishermen cleaned their catch (see it in our video). Watch from the side and leave them be.
  • Hobart Beach campground. About 20 minutes from Tathra, on Wallagoot Lake in Bournda National Park. It felt hidden away, with fire pits at the sites and kangaroos and wallabies around (see it in our video).
Hobart Beach campground has 66 sites, with toilets and showers but no power, and you should bring drinking water and firewood. Park entry fees aren't included in the camping fee. There's no mobile coverage at the campground, and it's patchy on the access road (NSW National Parks: Hobart Beach campground).
Tathra in a day. The wharf, the headland walk, stingrays at Kianinny and a campfire at Hobart Beach. Watch on YouTube

Merimbula, and Christmas in the van

We lived and worked in Merimbula for a couple of months, through Christmas and New Year. We worked and stayed at NRMA Merimbula Beach Holiday Resort, on the headland above the beach.

  • Our Merimbula highlights. We caught the end of the whale migration, got swooped by magpies more than once, found our favourite go-to coffee spot on the beach, fed kangaroos for the first time and fixed the awning.
  • Bar Beach and the kiosk. We kept going back, and we'd been at least three times (see it in our video).
  • A beach you can otherwise only reach by boat. A walk with steep steps takes you down to a tiny secluded beach (see it in our video).
  • Paddleboarding with stingrays. We paddled out to look for the stingrays we'd seen earlier, and watched from the board.
  • The oyster boardwalk. We walked to the end, where Sunny's is (see it in our video).
  • Merimbula Gourmet Oysters. Luke's first ever oysters. The road in is unsealed and the car park is small (see it in our video).
  • Potoroo Palace. A wildlife sanctuary run by volunteers, with dingoes and flying foxes. We got a feed bag and fed the kangaroos, which was an unexpected highlight.
  • Christmas Day in Merimbula. Our first Christmas living in the van, with no family or friends here. The plan for the beach didn't go to plan, and it was a really windy day (see it in our video).
Luke crouching to hand-feed a kangaroo, with a duck on the ground nearby
Fed kangaroos for the first timeFrom our Instagram · view the post
A plate of natural and topped oysters on a wooden outdoor table
Tried oysters for the first timeFrom our Instagram · view the post
Merimbula, where we lived for the summer. Bar Beach, a boat-only beach, stingrays, oysters and Potoroo Palace. Watch on YouTube

Detour: Kosciuszko and Thredbo

At the start of summer we drove from Merimbula up into the Snowy Mountains, which took us about two and a half to three hours. Thredbo is also a couple of hours from Canberra.

  • Ngarigo campground. We stayed the night before, with no power or water, and saw deer for the first time in Australia (see it in our video).
  • The chairlift and the summit walk. We took the Kosciuszko Express chairlift up from Thredbo, then walked about 13 km there and back to the summit. It took us about two and a half hours up and 1 hour 36 minutes down. The last lift down was at 4pm when we went, so check the time (see it in our video).
  • Snow in summer. There were patches of snow by the path, and our shoes had no grip on it (see it in our video).
  • The flies. We didn't expect the flies to be so intense.
  • The UV lesson. It was only 19°C, but the UV was extreme. Luke got badly sunburnt, even though we'd put sunscreen on that morning. Check the UV forecast and cover up, however cold it feels.
Luke riding a chairlift with a camera, giving a peace sign, above green alpine slopes
Got the chairlift upFrom our Instagram · view the post
Ashleigh walking along a path across a patch of snow on a bare alpine ridge
And we saw snowFrom our Instagram · view the post
Park entry fees apply in Kosciuszko National Park, and the Ngarigo campground booking doesn't cover them (NSW National Parks: Kosciuszko National Park visitor info, NSW National Parks: Ngarigo campground). Check lift times and dates with Thredbo before you go.
Climbing Mount Kosciuszko. Ngarigo, the Thredbo chairlift, snow on the path and the summit of Australia. Watch on YouTube

Eden

The last town in NSW. We met a fellow van lifer who gave us most of the tips below.

  • Cruise ship days. A cruise ship was in, and we were told they can nearly double the town for the day. Snug Cove wharf had the information centre and market stalls (see it in our video).
  • The Eden Killer Whale Museum. Watch the video at the start, which explains what you'll see in the museum. It tells the story of the orcas and the whalers working together (see it in our video).
  • Rotary Park lookout. A view across to Boyd's Tower, and we timed it with the cruise ship leaving (see it in our video).
  • Aslings Beach rock pools. A local tip for cooling off on a hot day, with a boardwalk next to the beach (see it in our video).
  • Food. The Hotel Australasia, newly renovated, does wood-fired pizza.
For opening times and the film, check the Eden Killer Whale Museum website.
Eden, our last stop in NSW. Cruise ship day, the Killer Whale Museum, Rotary Park lookout and the Aslings Beach rock pools. Watch on YouTube

Gippsland: Lakes Entrance and Raymond Island

  • Lakes Entrance. We drove through, and got the drone up over it (see it in our video).
  • Lake Tyers Beach Tavern. The best deal ever. The pub has a little camp area set up for its customers, and we stayed for free, on power, with water, toilets and showers. You don't actually have to buy anything, but we did, because we wanted to support such fantastic campsite hosts, and we loved the pub (see it in our video).
  • Raymond Island ferry. We left Ron in the car park in Paynesville and walked on. It was free on foot and only a couple of minutes across (see it in our video).
  • Koalas. We'd seen one within ten minutes of starting the Koala Trail, and counted eight by the end, including on the Abbey loop. Look where other people are looking up (see it in our video). Bring insect repellent for the mozzies.
The Raymond Island ferry leaves from The Esplanade in Paynesville, near Victoria Street, and the crossing takes about four minutes. When the ferry is out of service, there's a free water taxi for pedestrians (East Gippsland Shire: Raymond Island ferry). The Koala Trail is an easy two-kilometre walk with three extra loops. Park in Paynesville and walk on — car spaces on the ferry are limited, and the ferry is free for foot passengers (Visit East Gippsland: Raymond Island Koala Trail).

The tavern's own website doesn't cover the camping, so call or ask at the bar before you arrive (Lake Tyers Beach Tavern).

Koalas on Raymond Island. The Paynesville ferry, the Koala Trail and how many koalas we spotted. Watch on YouTube

Wilsons Promontory in a day

We only had one day, because storms were forecast, and it was the school holidays. We packed in a lot.

  • Fairy Cove. From the Darby River car park. A sign said it takes about 47 minutes. There's a steep bit, and we went slightly off course near the end. The swim at the end was worth it (see it in our video).
  • Picnic Bay and Whisky Bay. Picnic Bay was only about 300 m from the car park (see it in our video).
  • Squeaky Beach. Even whiter than Hyams Beach, to us. The car park is close and the walk is easy, so it was busier (see it in our video).
  • Tidal River. There's a visitor centre and a massive car park. The campground was fully booked, so we stayed on a powered site at BIG4 Wilsons Prom Holiday Park in Yanakie, outside the national park (see it in our video).
  • Before the Prom. We spent the three nights before at free camps (see it in our video). There are so many amazing paid, donation and free camps along this coast; check WikiCamps for where they are and all the details.
  • Mount Oberon. The Telegraph Saddle car park was closed, so we caught the shuttle from Tidal River. We power-walked to the summit, just missed the last bus down (5:45pm when we went, in the school holidays), and had a long walk back down the road. Check the last bus time and leave yourself plenty (see it in our video).
  • Wildlife. We hoped to see wombats on the Prom Wildlife Walk, but after about 45 minutes we'd only seen kangaroos (see it in our video).
At busy times a shuttle bus runs from Tidal River up to Telegraph Saddle, with the timetable posted at the departure points and at the Tidal River Visitor Centre. Mount Oberon is 558 m high, with a steep climb up steps near the summit (Parks Victoria: Mount Oberon). Tidal River has 484 sites, peak periods fill quickly, and there's a limit on vehicles in the park on busy summer days, so arrive before 10am. There's no fuel at Tidal River: the nearest is at Yanakie, Fish Creek and Foster. Avoid driving between dusk and dawn because of wildlife (Parks Victoria: Tidal River Campground). Squeaky Beach gets its name from its rounded quartz sand (Parks Victoria: Squeaky Beach).
Wilsons Prom in one day. Fairy Cove, Whisky Bay, Squeaky Beach and racing the last bus on Mount Oberon. Watch on YouTube

Melbourne, then Geelong for the ferry

Our Melbourne campervan guide has parking, an itinerary, Puffing Billy and the MCG.

  • Viewers' recommendations. We'd been to Melbourne before, so this time we tried to do what our viewers suggested: Hosier Lane, AC/DC Lane and the Botanic Gardens.
  • Check the night market days. We went to the Queen Victoria night market on a Saturday, and it turned out it was only on a Wednesday (see it in our video).
  • St Kilda. Our first visit. Parking wasn't free, and we got lucky and saw a penguin (see it in our video).
  • Eat your fruit before the ferry. Tasmania's biosecurity rules are strict, so we finished ours before driving to Geelong (see it in our video). Our Spirit of Tasmania guide covers the crossing.
Melbourne on your recommendations. Hosier Lane, the night market that wasn’t, St Kilda and a penguin. Watch on YouTube

Whale watching on this coast

We saw whales from the tour boat out of Huskisson, off Dalmeny headland, from our van near Bermagui, at Sunrise Point and Dickinson Point, and from Gillards. Tathra Wharf is another spot where whales come in close in season.

  • Look for the spray. You usually see the blow before the whale.
  • Pick a calm day. We went back to Dalmeny headland when the wind dropped, because the whitecaps make them hard to spot.
  • On a boat, wrap up. It was sunny on land and cold on the water.
Humpbacks head north around May and June and come back south from around August to November, and on the way south they're often closer to shore with their calves. Stay at least 5 m back from cliff edges and rock platforms (NSW National Parks: whale migration, the facts). Humpback sightings there peak in September and October, mothers and calves come through from September to November, and whale-watching cruises leave from Eden, Merimbula and Bermagui (Sapphire Coast Destination: whale watching on the Sapphire Coast).

Where we stayed, and the booking rules

Ron is self-contained, so we mix free camps with booked campgrounds and the odd paid night. There are so many amazing paid, donation and free camps along this coast, and we recommend WikiCamps for checking where they are and getting all the details. We don't name most of the free camps we used. Our free camping guide explains how we choose them. On this stretch we stayed at:

  • Honeymoon Bay Campground, Beecroft Peninsula (Defence).
  • A campground near Hyams Beach at the end of the unsealed road with the hump.
  • Pretty Beach campground, Murramarang National Park.
  • Congo campground, Eurobodalla National Park.
  • A caravan park for the water tank repair.
  • Dalmeny Campground, our favourite on this stretch.
  • Mystery Bay Campground near Narooma, for two nights (a council campground).
  • Gillards campground, Mimosa Rocks National Park.
  • Hobart Beach campground, Bournda National Park.
  • Ngarigo campground, Kosciuszko National Park.
  • Exhibition Park in Canberra (EPIC) for the Canberra detour, and NRMA Merimbula Beach Holiday Resort while we worked in Merimbula.
  • Lake Tyers Beach Tavern, the pub with free camping for customers.
  • BIG4 Wilsons Prom Holiday Park, Yanakie.
NSW National Parks charges the full campground fee when you book, plus a non-refundable booking fee, and park entry fees aren't included. You have to arrive by 2pm on the day after your booked arrival date, and cancelling gets you a partial refund, depending on how far ahead you cancel (NSW National Parks: accommodation and campground booking terms). Booderee is run by Parks Australia, not NPWS, and needs its own park pass (Parks Australia: Booderee park passes and permits). Honeymoon Bay is booked through Defence, up to 14 days ahead (Defence: Beecroft Weapons Range and Peninsula (Honeymoon Bay Campground)). In Victoria, Parks Victoria campgrounds open for booking in releases through the year, popular sites book out fast, and there are minimum stays at some campgrounds over the summer peak. Cancelling 30 days or more ahead gets a full refund (Parks Victoria: bookings release schedule). Tidal River fills quickly in peak periods (Parks Victoria: Tidal River Campground).

Driving, wildlife and signal

  • Get out and look. On anything unsealed, have one person out of the van to spot the humps and dips. That would have saved our water tank.
  • Wildlife on the road. We saw kangaroos, wallabies and deer. We avoid driving at night when we can, and Parks Victoria asks you not to drive at the Prom between dusk and dawn.
  • Spiders. We had a huntsman at Jervis Bay and a redback near Tuross. Check your shoes and the visors.
  • Signal. We were on Optus and had really good signal down the coast. There's no mobile coverage at Hobart Beach campground and only limited service at Pretty Beach. Download your maps before you head into the national parks.
  • Don't just follow Google. Check Street View before an unsealed road, and check opening days for markets and attractions. We turned up to the Melbourne night market on the wrong night.

FAQs

How long does the Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive take in a campervan?

We took about three months, but that included a couple of months working in Merimbula. Without work, we'd give it at least two weeks, plus a few days for each of the Canberra and Kosciuszko detours.

Can you do the Sydney to Melbourne coast road in a 2WD van?

Yes. We did it in our 2WD van. The main roads we drove were sealed. Take care on the short unsealed roads into campgrounds and farm gates: a hump on one near Hyams Beach punctured our water tank. Check Street View and get someone out to spot you.

When is the best time to see whales on the NSW south coast?

Spring. We saw whales heading south with calves from Jervis Bay to Bermagui. The southern migration runs from around August to November, and humpback sightings there peak in September and October.

Do you need to book Honeymoon Bay at Jervis Bay?

Yes. Honeymoon Bay Campground bookings open up to 14 days before arrival, at 9am (AEST), with set release dates for the summer school holidays. The peninsula is only open on Friday afternoons, at weekends, in NSW school holidays and on most public holidays, and access can change at short notice. You need to bring your own water.

Is Canberra worth the detour from the south coast?

We think so. We spent two days there: Lime e-scooters (Lime app) round Lake Burley Griffin, the Australian War Memorial, the National Botanic Gardens and the view from Mount Ainslie. Old Parliament House closed at 5pm, so check opening hours.

Can you climb Mount Kosciuszko in summer?

Yes. We took the chairlift up from Thredbo and walked about 13 km there and back to the summit, with patches of snow by the path in early summer. Check the last lift time, and check the UV: the high was 19°C and Luke still got badly sunburnt.

How do you get the Mount Oberon shuttle at Wilsons Prom?

At busy times, Parks Victoria runs a shuttle from Tidal River to Telegraph Saddle. Check the last bus time. We missed it and had a long walk back down the road.

Where can you see koalas between Sydney and Melbourne?

Raymond Island, across from Paynesville in Gippsland. We counted eight on the Koala Trail. Leave the van in Paynesville: the ferry is free for foot passengers.

Is there phone signal on the Sydney to Melbourne coastal drive?

We were on Optus and had really good signal down the coast. Coverage varies by network, so check your provider's map. There's no mobile coverage at Hobart Beach campground in Bournda National Park, so download your maps before you head into the parks.

Fees, rules and opening hours were correct as of 04/11/2026 — always double-check before you go.

Sources

Our own experience comes from our drive between the spring of 2025 and January 2026, and the videos linked above. Official information was checked on 2 November 2026. Things change, especially booking rules, so check the official pages before you go.

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