Ashleigh & Luke

Route guide · Victoria

The Great Ocean Road in a campervan: what we did, twice

We've driven the Great Ocean Road twice in Ron, our 2WD Renault Master campervan. The first time was just the two of us, at the end of January 2025. The second was in February 2026, straight off the Spirit of Tasmania, with Ashleigh's dad, Paul, following us in a little hire van of his own. This is the road in the order we drove it, east to west from Torquay, then on to Mount Gambier, plus our day in the Grampians. And you can watch both trips on our channel.

We came here straight after the Tamworth Country Music Festival.

Key points

  • Check the Otways walks before you plan them. We walked to the base of Erskine Falls on our first trip, but the tracks were closed on our second, so we skipped the Lorne waterfalls that time.
  • Book national park campgrounds ahead, on the official site. Bookable campgrounds in Great Otway National Park and the Grampians have to be booked and paid for before you arrive, and the fees came back on 1 July 2025 after a free period. Since 1 July 2026, some Great Ocean Road campgrounds are booked through the Great Ocean Road Coast and Parks Authority (GORCAPA) instead of Parks Victoria, so check which website your campground uses.
  • Book a vehicle site, not a tent pitch. On our first trip we booked a national park campground and accidentally booked a tent pitch.
  • A 2WD van is fine. The road itself is sealed and winding. The only gravel we drove was to campgrounds and the forest stops in the Otways.
  • Go early or late at the Twelve Apostles. It was the busiest stop on the whole road for us, both times.
  • For koalas, try Kennett River and Tower Hill. We saw them at both, on both trips, and on the roadside where other people had stopped.
  • Give it more than a day or two. We spread our first time over several days, and still came back for more.
Before you go. Always double-check that walks, falls, roads and attractions are open before you go, to avoid disappointment, and check current fees at the time of booking. Closures and prices can change at short notice.

Can you do the Great Ocean Road in a 2WD van?

Yes. Ron is a 2WD, and as we say on our essentials page, we stick to sealed roads and firm tracks. The Great Ocean Road itself is sealed. What slows you down is the bends, the hills and the traffic at the big stops. Here's how the roads and places on our route, plus a few of the popular stops in the boxes below, stack up:

Road or placeIn a 2WD?What the official page says, and what we found
The Great Ocean Road, Torquay to WarrnamboolYesWe drove it twice in Ron. It's winding, with lots of places to pull over for the beaches and lookouts. Paul said he had a smile on his face the whole way.
Hammonds Campground, inland from Aireys InletYes, slowlyIt was corrugated when we drove it. Only the first few sites at Hammonds Campground take vehicles, and the rest are tent-only.
Beauchamp Falls, Otway Forest ParkYesThe access road is unsealed but suitable for 2WD vehicles and caravans. We drove there in Ron on both trips.
The Redwoods and Hopetoun FallsYesWe drove Ron to both on our second trip. Check Parks Victoria's changes of conditions before you go.
Erskine Falls, near LorneYesWe walked to the base on our first trip. Check Parks Victoria's changes of conditions before you go.
Twelve Apostles car parkYesThe car park is on the inland side of the road, and you walk under the road to the lookouts. It was very busy both times.
Blue Lake, Mount GambierYesWe parked in the small car park, then took the stairs and an underpass to the lookout.
Zumsteins, GrampiansCheck your sizeParking at Zumsteins is limited for big vehicles.

Our habit for anything unsealed: check what the road looks like on Google Street View first. If it doesn't have Street View, there's usually a reason for it. It's the lesson we learned the hard way in Tasmania.

How long, when, and our route

we've done it twice, and we'd do it again

We've done the road twice, about a year apart, and we'd do it again. Both times were in summer. At the end of January, the day before we started was in the mid to high 30s, then it dropped to 20 to 25 and we had jumpers on at Split Point. In February 2026 we had scorching sunny days and a night of rain in the forest. Pack for both, and check the weather before you go. Summer is the busiest time, and the Twelve Apostles, Gibson Steps and Memorial Arch were full of tour buses.

Our route, east to west:

  1. Torquay and Anglesea, where the road starts.
  2. Memorial Arch, then Split Point Lighthouse at Aireys Inlet.
  3. Lorne, and on our first trip, Erskine Falls.
  4. Artillery Rocks and the koalas at Kennett River.
  5. Apollo Bay, then inland to Maits Rest, the Redwoods, Hopetoun Falls and Beauchamp Falls.
  6. The Otway Fly, then back to the coast at Gibson Steps and the Twelve Apostles.
  7. Port Campbell and The Grotto.
  8. Tower Hill, near Warrnambool, where the road ends.
  9. With Paul, on along the coast to Mount Gambier in South Australia, then Adelaide.

How the time fell, roughly:

  • First trip, just the two of us (end of January 2025): we arrived after a 14-hour drive down from Tamworth. Day one was Torquay, Anglesea and Memorial Arch, then Hammonds Campground, a booked national park campground. Day two was Split Point, Lorne and Erskine Falls, then a paid night at Kennett River. Day three was Apollo Bay, Maits Rest and the Redwoods, then a free forest campground at Beauchamp Falls. We reached Gibson Steps, Port Campbell and London Bridge on that first run too, and came back about three weeks later, while we were working in Warrnambool, in the sunshine for the Otway Fly, Gibson Steps again, the Twelve Apostles, Port Campbell and The Grotto, then a free camp near Warrnambool and Tower Hill. In Port Campbell on that second visit, we said we'd been there about three weeks before (see it in our video).
  • Second trip, with Paul (February 2026): we stayed at Anglesea Family Caravan Park the night before. Day one was Split Point, Memorial Arch, Lorne, Artillery Rocks and Kennett River, then the last two spots at Apollo Bay Holiday Park. Day two was breakfast in Apollo Bay, the Redwoods and Hopetoun Falls, then the free campground at Beauchamp Falls, where we got in at about 2pm before the rain. Day three was about an hour's drive to the Twelve Apostles, then Port Campbell and Tower Hill. After a rest-and-washing day further along the coast, we spent a full day in Mount Gambier, then drove north to Adelaide. Our Adelaide and Hahndorf guide covers what we did there.

If you can, give it three or four days to Warrnambool, more if you want the walks. Every pull-in has a view, and you'll want to stop at most of them.

The Great Ocean Road, part 1. Torquay, Anglesea, Memorial Arch, Split Point, Lorne, Erskine Falls and our first koala at Kennett River. Watch on YouTube

Torquay, Anglesea and Memorial Arch

  • Torquay. This is where the road starts. There are beachfront showers, which we used to freshen up, and the views start about 5 minutes' walk from where we parked. It was very windy (see it in our video).
  • Anglesea Golf Club kangaroos. The golf club runs kangaroo tours, but when we went, the weekday tours only ran until 3pm, and we turned up at 4pm. We still saw loads of kangaroos from the road outside the course. If you want to be sure of seeing kangaroos up close, it's worth getting there in time for a tour (see it in our video).
  • Memorial Arch. It's really touristy, as you'd expect, and everyone gets the same photo. There's a car park right next to it. Read the plaques: the road was built by and for the soldiers and sailors who came back from the First World War, and this is the third arch (see it in our video, and again with Paul).
Across Surf Coast Shire (Torquay, Anglesea and Aireys Inlet), sleeping in a vehicle anywhere is an offence unless you're in a designated campground or caravan park (Surf Coast Shire: parking and traffic). There's more in our free camping guide.

Split Point, Lorne and the Lorne waterfalls

  • Split Point Lighthouse and the Lighthouse Tea Rooms, Aireys Inlet. We walked to the lookout to wake ourselves up, then had toasties and scones in the tea rooms. It's one of our favourite spots on the whole road, and we took Paul back on our second trip (see it in our video, and with Paul).
  • Lorne. It gave us Devon and Cornwall vibes, with houses in the hills and the river beside the beach. We got iced drinks at the Swing Bridge Cafe both times, and the high street has plenty of restaurants, bars and shops (see it in our video). On our second trip we saw flood damage in a park in Lorne (see it in our video).
  • Erskine Falls. On our first trip, we went down the steps to the lower lookout, which took us about 5 minutes. The steps back up are really steep, and it took Luke nearly 4 minutes without stopping. Ashleigh reckons about 10 minutes if you take your time. Lots of people were climbing over the rocks to the "unofficial base", and so did we. On our second trip we skipped the Lorne waterfalls because the tracks were closed after flooding (see it in our video).
Track and walk changes in the Otways, including at Erskine Falls, are listed on Parks Victoria: changes of conditions page.

The Otways: Maits Rest, the Redwoods and the waterfalls

  • Maits Rest. A rainforest boardwalk in Great Otway National Park. The sign said it's a 30-minute circuit with no steps (see it in our video).
  • The Californian Redwoods. A forest of huge redwoods in the Otways, where we played hide and seek on both trips. With Paul, it was three grown-ups (see it in our video, and with Paul).
  • Hopetoun Falls. Just down the road from the Redwoods. It's a lot of steps down and back up. Paul's verdict on his knees: "better going up than it is down" (see it in our video).
  • Beauchamp Falls. The walk to the falls starts from the campground. The sign said 1 to 2 hours there and back, but it took us about half an hour to get down, and the way back up is the harder part. The forest keeps it cool on a hot day. We did it on both trips, because Paul wanted to see it (see it in our video, and with Paul). In our videos we call it national park, but it's actually Otway Forest Park.
The Beauchamp Falls walk is about 3 km return and takes about an hour, to a 20 m waterfall, and there's no drinking water, so bring your own (Explore Outdoors (Victorian Government): Beauchamp Falls). The Hopetoun Falls Walk has a steep, slippery track and unstable cliffs (Parks Victoria: Hopetoun Falls Walk). At the Redwoods there are no dogs, camping, fires or bikes, and no mobile phone reception (Parks Victoria: Aire Valley Reserve (Redwoods) day visitor area).
The Great Ocean Road, part 2. Apollo Bay, roadside koalas, Maits Rest, the Redwoods, hide and seek, and the walk to Beauchamp Falls. Watch on YouTube

The Otway Fly, Gibson Steps and the Twelve Apostles

  • The Otway Fly Treetop Walk. It took us about an hour from the car park, around the treetop walk and back. The walk back up to the car park is steep. Ashleigh rushed the high bits because of her fear of heights, so allow longer if you want to take your time (see it in our video).
  • Gibson Steps. About 45 minutes' drive from the Otway Fly, just before the Twelve Apostles. The first time we went, it was cloudy and quiet. The second time, it was sunny and the car park was busy. Wear trainers for the steps, but the sand at the bottom was hot without them (see it in our video).
  • The Twelve Apostles. The most popular lookout on the road, and the busiest, with lots of tour groups. Unlike most stops, the car park is on the inland side of the road, and the lookouts are about a 1 km walk, which the signs said is 15 to 30 minutes there and back. It was windy. We could count about seven Apostles, and Paul counted nine (see it in our video, and with Paul).
Come earlier or later in the day if you want fewer people at the Apostles (Parks Victoria: Twelve Apostles). An all-abilities path goes under the Great Ocean Road to the lookouts, and it's about 1 hour and 2.2 km return between the Twelve Apostles and Gibson Steps. Access to the beach at Gibson Steps closes in high tides and big swells (Parks Victoria: Port Campbell National Park and Bay of Islands Coastal Park visitor guide (PDF), Parks Victoria: Gibson Steps). There are no dogs in Port Campbell National Park.

Tower Hill and Warrnambool

  • Tower Hill. About half an hour from Warrnambool, and one of the best places we found for wildlife. Every time we've been, we've seen koalas right by the car park, and with Paul there were emus too (see it in our video). On our first trip, we did the Peak Climb. The sign said about 1 km and 25 minutes. Parts were really steep, and it was so windy at the top that we were hugging a tree (see it in our video).
  • Warrnambool. The road finishes just before Warrnambool. After our first trip, we worked there for about six weeks, then drove north to Brisbane to meet Paul at CMC Rocks for his first visit to Australia. There's more on finding work in our working holiday guide.
Parks Victoria's 2026 visitor guide gives the Tower Hill Peak Climb as 1.5 km return and about 30 minutes, and it's steep (Parks Victoria: Tower Hill Reserve visitor guide 2026 (PDF), Parks Victoria: Tower Hill Peak Walk).

On to Mount Gambier

With Paul, we kept following the coast over the border into South Australia and spent a full day in Mount Gambier. It's on our Great Lap route too. The sinkholes and caves are right in the middle of normal streets, and you'd drive through and never know they were there.

  • Umpherston Sinkhole. It's in a park next to a normal road. Down inside, it's cool on a hot day, and there are plaques on its history, including the sawmill next door (see it in our video).
  • Engelbrecht Cave. We hadn't done our research, so we had to go back and change into enclosed shoes. The guided tours ran every hour when we went, and you can't film inside. The cave is cool, and our guide really knew their stuff (see it in our video).
  • The Blue Lake. Park in the small car park, then take the stairs and the underpass to the lookout. It really is that blue (see it in our video). On a 29°C day, we walked up to the Centenary Tower from there. It's much steeper than it looks, and the door was locked when he got to the top, but the views over the town were worth it.
  • Little Blue Lake. On a 31°C day, we went for a swim. It's a popular local spot, there's a pontoon, and the flies were next level. We'd read that the water is 12°C, but it felt warmer (see it in our video).
Little Blue Lake is a cool swim for experienced swimmers. It's very deep, with no shallow area, and there's a floating pontoon and stairs. Cliff jumping is prohibited, and you can't camp in the car park (District Council of Grant: caves, ponds and sinkholes (Little Blue Lake)). Umpherston Sinkhole is a free public park, open all the time (Visit Limestone Coast: when is Umpherston Sinkhole open?). For Engelbrecht Cave, check current tour times and bookings before you go (Visit Mount Gambier: Engelbrecht Cave).
Mount Gambier with Dad. Umpherston Sinkhole, Engelbrecht Cave, the Blue Lake and a swim in Little Blue Lake. Watch on YouTube

A day in the Grampians

On our first trip to Victoria, we drove up to Halls Gap and walked to the Pinnacle. We made a lot of mistakes, so learn from ours.

  • It took far longer than we expected. We followed the trail on AllTrails from Halls Gap, and someone in the reviews said it took them about 3 hours, for a loop of about 8.5 km. By about 2pm we'd been going 2 hours, the hardest climbing was still ahead, and it was hot (see it in our video).
  • Take more water than you think, one big bottle each at least. We drank most of ours in the first quarter of the walk (see it in our video).
  • Charge your phone and download the map. Our phone was dying, and the map was on it (see it in our video).
  • Silent Street and the Pinnacle. Silent Street, a narrow passage between the rocks, was a highlight. At the top, on a Wednesday, we had the Pinnacle to ourselves. The way down was much easier (see it in our video).
  • Wildlife and flies. Halfway up, we saw a wild shingleback (stumpy-tailed) lizard. The flies were so bad they landed on our faces. The trail itself was clearly marked, which saved us when the phone died.
The Pinnacle from the Halls Gap caravan park is about 5 hours return, for fit and experienced walkers. The easiest route is from the Sundial car park via Devils Gap, and there's a more challenging route from the Wonderland car park via the Grand Canyon (Parks Victoria: the Pinnacle walks). There's a steep track and unstable cliffs (Parks Victoria: the Pinnacle Walk). If you're camping, Parks Victoria lists Grampians National Park among the parks where camping fees apply, and its campgrounds are booked through Parks Victoria bookings (Parks Victoria: booking information).
Hiking the Pinnacle in the Grampians. The Pinnacle from Halls Gap, Silent Street, a shingleback lizard, and the water mistakes we made. Watch on YouTube

Melbourne

Melbourne is where most people start the road, and where Paul flew in for his second visit, and our second trip along the road. We park outside the centre and take the train in, and we did the Puffing Billy steam train from Belgrave to Lakeside. Our Melbourne campervan guide covers parking, getting around, a 4-day itinerary, Puffing Billy tickets, the MCG and St Kilda.

Where we slept, and the 2026 booking change

Ron is self-contained, so we mix free camps with the odd paid night. We found everything on WikiCamps, and we're not going to name our favourite free camps, so go and find your own. Our free camping guide explains how we choose them. The mix included:

  • Free camps, including one near Warrnambool with flushing toilets, a camp kitchen and a freshwater swimming hole. Road noise is the trade-off there.
  • Beauchamp Falls Campground, a free forest campground in Otway Forest Park, on both trips. On a Thursday afternoon at about 3:30pm, there was plenty of room. You can't book it: there's no booking and no fee, so it's first come, first served, and it's popular, so arrive early.
  • Hammonds Campground, a booked national park campground in Great Otway National Park, inland from Aireys Inlet. This is where we booked a tent pitch by mistake. We stayed in January 2025, during a limited period when Parks Victoria's bookable campgrounds were free. That ended on 30 June 2025, and you now pay when you book. The vehicle sites were all booked, but three of them stayed empty all night because people didn't turn up. If you can't use a booking, cancel it so someone else can (see it in our video).
  • Paid parks: the Kennett River caravan park on our first trip, and on our second, Anglesea Family Caravan Park the night before we set off, then Apollo Bay Holiday Park, booked on the day.
Fees apply at its bookable campgrounds, so check the current fee when you book (Parks Victoria: booking information). Its list of parks where camping fees apply includes Great Otway National Park and the Grampians National Park. For Hammonds Campground, advance booking and payment are required year-round, and only the first few sites take vehicles (Parks Victoria: Hammonds Campground). From 1 July 2026, GORCAPA took over managing parts of Great Otway National Park, Port Campbell National Park and the Bay of Islands Coastal Park, with no change to public access, and bookings for some Great Ocean Road campgrounds moved to GORCAPA's website (Parks Victoria: changes to park management along the Great Ocean Road (15 June 2026), Parks Victoria bookings). Bookings are essential at GORCAPA's Great Otway drive-in campgrounds and must be made before you arrive (GORCAPA: drive-in campgrounds in Great Otway National Park). When we checked, Parks Victoria's Hammonds page still linked to Parks Victoria bookings, so check both sites. Beauchamp Falls is in Otway Forest Park, not the national park, and there's no booking and no fee (Explore Outdoors (Victorian Government): Beauchamp Falls). GORCAPA's caravan parks site also notes a booking-system provider data breach and fake booking messages doing the rounds — only book through the official websites (Great Ocean Road Parks (GORCAPA caravan parks and campgrounds)).

Driving, wind, wildlife and signal

  • It's a driving road. Paul loved the bends and the views on the coastal roads. Take your time, use the pull-ins and let faster traffic past.
  • The wind on the coast. On the coastal stretches, Paul found the wind "a little bit hairy" in his small hire van, and said he'd book a pop-top next time (see it in our video). Ashleigh drove his van for a morning and found it felt more fragile when the wind blew, while Ron felt more secure on the road (see it in our video).
  • Parking in a smaller van. Paul's van fitted in a normal parking space, and its extra mirrors helped with the angled kerbside parking you get in Australian towns.
  • Wildlife. We didn't see as many animals along the road as we expected, apart from the koalas at Kennett River and Tower Hill, and the kangaroos around Anglesea. We avoid driving at night when we can.
  • Signal. We were on Optus, and we don't remember losing signal anywhere along the Great Ocean Road itself. It was only when we headed inland into the Otways that it dropped. Coverage varies by network, so check your provider's coverage map before you go. There's no mobile reception at the Redwoods, so download your maps and check closures before you head inland.
  • Don't just follow Google Maps. Check Street View before an unsealed road, or do your research first. If you're unsure, don't go down it.
The Great Ocean Road with Dad. Our second time on the road, with Ashleigh’s dad, Paul, in his own van: Split Point, Lorne, Kennett River, the Otways and the Twelve Apostles. Watch on YouTube

FAQs

How long do you need for the Great Ocean Road in a campervan?

We'd give it at least three or four days from Torquay to Warrnambool, more if you want to do the walks in the Otways. We spread our first time over several days, and still came back for more. Every pull-in has a view, so it takes longer than the map says.

Can you drive the Great Ocean Road in a 2WD campervan?

Yes. The road is sealed, and we've driven it twice in our 2WD van. The only gravel we drove was to campgrounds and forest stops in the Otways, like Beauchamp Falls, which is suitable for 2WD vehicles and caravans. Check any unsealed road on Street View first.

Do you need to book campgrounds on the Great Ocean Road?

For national park campgrounds, yes. Bookable campgrounds in Great Otway National Park have to be booked and paid for before you arrive, on the official website. Beauchamp Falls in Otway Forest Park is different: there's no booking and no fee, so it's first come, first served. Caravan parks fill up in summer, too. We got the last two spots in Apollo Bay on our second trip.

Is camping in Victoria's national parks still free?

No. Fees apply at Parks Victoria's bookable campgrounds, so check the official booking site for the current fee before you go.

Did camping bookings on the Great Ocean Road change in 2026?

Yes. From 1 July 2026, some Great Ocean Road campsites are booked directly through the Great Ocean Road Coast and Parks Authority (GORCAPA) website instead of Parks Victoria. Check which website your campground uses before you book.

Is there phone signal on the Great Ocean Road?

We were on Optus, and we don't remember losing signal anywhere along the road itself. It dropped once we headed inland into the Otways, and there's no mobile reception at the Redwoods. Coverage varies by network, so check your provider's coverage map and download your maps before you head inland.

Can you walk to the base of Erskine Falls?

Yes. We walked down to the base on our first trip. Check Parks Victoria's changes of conditions before you go, in case the tracks are closed.

Where can you see koalas on the Great Ocean Road?

We saw them at Kennett River, around the caravan park and the Koala Cafe, at Tower Hill near Warrnambool, and in the trees by the road near Apollo Bay. Look for the people stopped and looking up.

When is the best time to visit the Twelve Apostles?

Early or late in the day. It was the busiest stop on the road both times we went, full of tour groups. Parks Victoria also suggests coming earlier or later for fewer people. The car park is on the inland side, and you walk under the road to the lookouts.

Can you free camp on the Great Ocean Road?

Yes, but not everywhere. Sleeping in a vehicle anywhere in the shire is an offence unless you're in a campground or caravan park. We found free camps and a free forest campground on WikiCamps, booked a national park campground, and paid for a caravan park now and then to fill our water, do the washing and charge everything.

Is Mount Gambier worth the detour?

We think so. It's one of our favourite stops of our whole lap. In one day we saw Umpherston Sinkhole, Engelbrecht Cave and the Blue Lake, and swam in Little Blue Lake.

Fees, rules and opening hours were correct as of 02/11/2026 — always double-check before you go.

Sources

Our own experience comes from our trips in January 2025 and February 2026 and the videos linked above. Official information was checked on 2 November 2026. Things change, so check the official pages before you go.

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